I have never been somebody’s boss before, not really. Being
a Senior Branch Administrator with an administrator below me is something
different. I didn’t pay her; the same person paid the both of us. As I left
Girimkil at the front door to retrieve money for him, I thought, “Did I ever
think I’d be asked that question: ‘Can I have my wages in advance?’” Not that
that was what he said exactly: translating intended meaning is far more
complicated than that. Neither did I ever plan on being the employer of somebody
whose mother tongue wasn’t my own.
It’s just weird, really. Deciding how often to give raises,
and how much of a raise is appropriate. Having to draw the line somewhere
between wanting to support a struggling family, and paying them for services we
neither want nor need. Let’s rewind: this working relationship began when a
blind man offered to be our guard. Daniel and I stole side glances at each
other, but eventually decided it would be good to have a reason to pay them.
Now Girimkil is the ears of this outfit, and his sons the eyes: I feel silly
now for not understanding it then.
The moment we step out of our compound, we’re bombarded
with, “Give me money” at every corner. “Ginzab habani” if they don’t know
English. Or simply, skip the “give me” and use “Money” as our names, shouted as
they run after us. By people who need it, by kids who don’t need it (but want
candy). Third world countries have been trained to expect and ask money from
the first-worlders. Because we have it, and they need it. (This should be a
simple equation to solve). And our histories are chock-full of our countries
giving to theirs on the grander scale. But narrow is the path that leads to
development and sustainability. Somehow we have to break the cycle and
stereotype of Americans, Italians, the English having pockets full of
disposable cash to bestow on everyone we pass. And yet we are Christians: we’re
supposed to be giving the clothes off our backs, when asked. Right? (Cultural
note: it is not faux pas to ask someone directly for something on their person.
I’ve had Luam point to my earrings and say “habani”--“give me”--, and Nesanet
ask me more than once to give her my clothes. Several little girls ask for my
ring. Yet I say no, and feel awful afterwards. Embarrassed for them, guilty for
me). So how the heck are we supposed to stay sane? How much do we give, and
when do we say no?
When I gave Girimkil his guard wages, and Misilal her
bread-making wages, three days in advance, Girimkil said, “There is some
problem in my household.” He mimed raking twigs off our ground, and asked if we
would pay them to do that for us also. About once a month they ask if we’ll
hire Misilal to do our laundry, if we’ll hire Luam to wash the inside and
outside of our home. Each time we politely decline. The twigs don’t bother us,
we “enjoy” doing laundry (it’s cathartic and simple), and I can’t bring myself
to hire someone to clean my own home. There’s not a trace of that in my blood.
I will clean my home, thank you. I am a capable woman and housekeeper. But
they’re running out of money, we’re running out of needed jobs to give them,
and I’m running out of reasons to feel okay with all of this. Each time we
catch them pouring water from a bucket onto our porch to “clean” it
(essentially, creating mud), I want to say, “This is not dirty. Don’t worry
about this. But what about the trash?”
You see, littering is very much a part of Ethiopian culture.
(Okay, so it’s not “culture” but something else: a direct result of not having
a trash pick-up service). Because of this, our yard looks like the third circle
of Hell. The neighbor kids play in our compound every day. And since we agreed
to have Girimkil guard for us, he and his boys moved into a room within our
compound. As a result, there are bits of Styrofoam, homework, old shoes, old
telephones, razors, shards of glass, nails, lightbulbs, and food wrappers all
over our yard. We’ve tried explaining this to them a few times. I think the
problem is, the authority figure can’t see what we’re pointing to, due to lack
of eyesight, and he doesn’t understand either our English or Tigrigna pleas, in
this case.
One day Daniel and I had had enough. We thought, “It may not
be our trash. But it is our yard. It is beautiful, but they’re making it ugly.”
So, in an animated huff, we covered the spacious grounds and filled two bags
with nasty trash. As the neighbors stared, a few times I indicated the trash
and said, “Nimintay?” (Why?) in the kindest voice of disbelief I could muster.
They kept watching. I eventually said to Teddy and Shewit (4th and 6th
grade, respectively): “Koshasha aydalin. Betami himak iyu. Maaz koshasha allo,
nabzi, ishy? Bajakum.” (Translation: I don’t want trash. It is very ugly. When
there is trash, put it in that trash hole, okay? Please). They nodded, took the
bags out of my and Daniel’s hands, and finished the job for us. With all our
might we tried explaining, in essence, we mean continuous present tense, not
present tense. We mean future tense. Everyday tense. What we were saying was,
“Please don’t throw trash on the ground.” But what they heard was, “Pick up
this trash now.” It only took a week or so before the yard again looked the way
it did before we embarked on this “education project.”
Fast forward to this week, when Girimkil offers to pick up
twigs from our ground for payment. At the tip of my tongue I held the words:
“Twigs?! What’s wrong with twigs?! W h a t a b o u t t h e t r a s h?” But then
I remembered. I certainly can’t pay them to pick up trash that they throw in
our yard in the first place. (Additional note for effect: Daniel reminisces
about our first days here, when he was almost hit in the head by an airborne
laundry detergent box that one of the neighbors threw over the stone wall, into
our yard).
Why isn’t it easier? Why can’t I just find a time where no
one is at their house, sneak in, and hide 100 birr notes under their bedsheets,
in the chicken coop, in the injera holder? Isn’t that essentially what the main
character in Dave Eggers’s You Shall Know Our Velocity did? And wasn’t it portrayed as a good thing to do?
We were rooting for him!
Yet on the Peace Corps sustainability spectrum, we’re the
oddballs for even tithing in our communities, giving to charities/struggling
institutions we want to support. For Pete’s sake, I was given incredulous,
disappointed looks by other Peace Corps volunteers when I excitedly told them
about all the books our family and friends donated to the schools. One hundred
and fifty-six books for empty primary school libraries! Praise the Lord, is what
my racing heart is saying. But what they were saying: “I’m a foreigner. There’s
no way I’d let anyone in my community see me giving boxes of things to
anybody.” So, wait. We can’t give BOOKS either?
I am torn. Not in the nonchalant way that this adjective is
used when you’re deciding between two peanut butter brands, but truly in the
term’s intended meaning: shredded and tattered, ripped apart. I confess that
the poverty here has not moved me to tears. Not once in our 8 months’ stay. The
disabilities, the twisted legs, the baseball-sized goiters jutting out of
necks: these things, yes. But not the poverty. It has become a normal term of
life, nothing at all surprising.
I’m a bit amazed and saddened at myself, that I’m not always choking
back tears. But maybe you only have those experiences once, and mine was that
semester in Uganda. I saw it, I understood, and I went home and lived
differently. I stopped buying clothes. We made a household rule to buy one
canned good for the poor every time we step into a grocery store (am I allowed
to recommend this to others? It’s been a joy for us). I will never willingly
install a dishwasher, or any other pointless, pricey, pretty appliance that my
own hands can race, etc. (We’ve been over this. My apologies). Ethiopia seems
to have brought us to phase two: These are our neighbors, these are the sizes
of their one-room homes, this is the standard of living in which they are
placed, and really, what can we do about it? How can we become immobilized by
sadness over these conditions that are the conditions of
almost.every.single.home.in.our.community? It seems we just have to accept it,
and go from there. Because, if every home is a one-room home, a one-room home
can’t be the face of poverty anymore, can it? It becomes the face of average,
of middle class, of everyone.
And yet here we are, two people sharing a three-bedroom home
with living room, kitchen, and bathroom, making loads more than our neighbors
on our “volunteer stipend,” and yet we feel our hands are tied. We have money
to give, and hearts that want to, but what about the American or British
volunteer who moves in after us? We have to think of them, and every other
foreign worker who comes to Adwa, to Ethiopia, to Africa to do good work. And
we have to think of the Ethiopians. Is it dignifying or empowering for them if
they are just repeatedly handed money that they didn’t work for?
We cannot set a standard of just handing out money because
we think it’s right. Because, actually, somehow it isn’t. And that’s what drives me crazy.
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